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Has anyone else noticed a resurgence of small watches recently? It’s like the world of horology has followed in the footsteps of the rest of the tech industry and is downsizing its products. I’ve been seeing more cases measuring 36mm and below than ever before, and it’s got me wondering: are big watches still in style?
I remember when big watches were all the rage – consumers wanted to show off their investments loud and proud, typically opting for bold case sizes with equally bold dials and hardware. In some cases, they were overly big and brash with a bit of “look at me flair”, but there have also been plenty of big and beautiful watches that, despite their imposing size, still looked sleek and sophisticated.
Lately, however, it seems like the pendulum might be swinging back toward the petite side of things. Watch collectors are taking more of a fancy to vintage aesthetics of late, and with retro design comes smaller case sizes. But just because more people are choosing smaller watches, does that mean big watches are out completely?
The Evolution of Watch Sizes
Before we look back to the history of watch case sizes, we should first determine exactly what we mean when we say “big” and “small” watches. At the end of the day, a big watch means different things to different people since everyone has a different sized wrist. For the sake of today’s discussion, I’ll define a large watch as anything 41mm or above. These watches typically suit wrists of around 7 to 8 inches in circumference.
Conversely, anything 36mm or below is considered on the smaller side, generally fitting wrists of 6 to 7 inches. With those definitions in mind, let’s consider the evolution of watch case sizes over the last few centuries and how this has undoubtedly affected today's trends.
Some of the first watches were made with women in mind, and since women typically have smaller wrists than men, it fares that these timepieces were quite petite. During the early 19th century, pocket watches were also the standard, and since they were designed to slip nicely into the pockets of jackets, they were made relatively small.
Men’s wristwatches didn’t start to gain prominence until World War I and again often featured small case sizes between 30mm and 34mm. They needed to be small enough that they didn’t get in the way but large enough to offer a reasonable level of readability while out in the field.
But as is always the case, as the years passed, changing fashion trends dictated something different, and during the 1950s and 60s, watch cases began to grow in size.
This was largely down to the introduction of automatic winding movements that required more space. And then, with the introduction of quartz technology in the 1980s, cases shifted again to be larger, again making room for large mechanisms and the era’s taste for extravagance.
During the 1990s, more complex functions became the norm; the chronograph complication, in particular, was popular, and due to the number of components required to power a chronograph watch, these models are typically big in size. Since the beginning of the 2020s, we’ve slowly but surely seen the number of large watches decline to make room for smaller timepieces.
Truthfully, I think we can blame a growing appreciation for vintage aesthetics. Since small watches are reminiscent of the classic designs launched during the early 20th century, luxury watch retailers appeal to the trend and release case sizes to match.
Big Watches vs Small Watches
Comparing big watches to small watches is like asking a stranger on the street if they’d prefer to live in the penthouse of a towering skyscraper or a charming cottage in the countryside. Both have their own appeal, and really, it’s going to depend entirely on the person you’re asking.
Big watches, those bold 41mm and up timepieces, are your statement makers. They’re eye-catching and well-suited to those who enjoy making an impression – or simply someone with a larger-than-average wrist.
They often feature equally large dials, which can mean more room for intricate details and additional complications, thanks to the space inside the case that allows for bigger movements. As mentioned, chronograph watches are typically large, as are those with rare complications like the perpetual calendar.
Since big watches didn’t become a regular sight until the 1970s and onwards, they also tend to have a more modern and rugged look. The downside? Those with smaller wrists might fight them a little cumbersome as they can easily overwhelm petite frames.
On the flip side, small watches - which, for the sake of today, we’re saying are those measuring 36mm wide or below - are considered classics. They typically mimic the timeless charm of some of the first wristwatches created during the early 20th century, opting for clean, minimalistic dials and traditional functionality such as classic time and date.
Small watches are often chosen by those who want something elegant for formal occasions. Their petite profiles mean they can comfortably sit under shirt cuffs. They also generally weigh less, so they’re ideal for everyday wear.
However, small watches also have their own set of downfalls. For starters, you’ll struggle to find many chronographs or perpetual calendars on small watch cases. They can also have slightly less visual impact than their larger counterparts.
How to Choose the Right Watch Size for You
Choosing the case size of your watch is just as important as picking the dial color, case metal, strap, and complications. It needs to tick all the boxes you have and properly reflect your own style. First and foremost, we recommend measuring your wrist.
One of the best ways to dictate what size watch will best suit you is to pop a measuring tape around your arm. If you have a smaller wrist, around 6 to 7 inches, a case with a diameter between 36mm and 40mm is often a good choice.
On the other hand, if you have a larger wrist, something above 7 inches, then you might lean towards watches 41mm and above. These watches tend to have a more commanding presence and typically fit broader wrists. That said, your wrist size isn’t everything. Those with big wrists can still pull off small cases and vice versa.
That leads us to our next question: what is your taste in watches? Are you more drawn to the sleek, minimalistic designs of smaller timepieces, or do you prefer the bold, feature-packed look of larger models? For example, if you better appreciate understated elegance, it’s likely you’re going to favor smaller watches. Alternatively, if you love a modern, high-tech look, then a larger watch could be more up your alley.
Another important factor to consider is why you wear a watch. Is it purely for its functionality – for example, do you need chronograph complication for your job or sport? Or do you see it as a fashion statement?
If you’re all about practicality, you’ll want a watch that’s comfortable and easy to read, and you’ll need to make sure all the functions you want are offered on the dial. If it's simply for fashion, you can worry less about what it offers function-wise and focus more on its looks.
Once you’ve asked yourself all these questions, you should hopefully know what kind of watch size you want. It’s a blend of wrist proportions, personal taste, and functional needs. Take all of this into account, and you’ll find a watch that looks great and feels amazing, too.
So, back to our original question: are big watches still in style? In my opinion, yes. While small watches are certainly making a comeback and attracting the wrists of vintage timepiece lovers, I don’t see big watches going anywhere anytime soon. They’ll always be around, making statements, providing us with unique and fantastic functionality, and appealing to those who appreciate a bolder, more commanding timepiece.
The world of watches is always changing, and trends will always come and go, but there are certain styles and designs that will never disappear. And big watches are one of them. I believe that everyone can wear any watch they want. If you love it, wear it – it doesn’t matter if your wrist is small, wear that big watch and show it off proudly.
Stay connected with more insights from the ever-evolving world of fashion and trends at Woke Waves Magazine.
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